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Il Menu Opzioni: Può personalizzare il suo ambiente di gioco modificando una delle seguenti opzioni: Opzioni del Poker Noti che il tab delle Opzioni del Poker è disponibile solo dalla lobby - queste opzioni non possono essere modificate quando un'altro programma è in corso. Visione dall'alto/Visione Laterale-Scelga se desidera visualizzare il gioco del poker dall'alto oppure lateralmente in 3-D.Avatar-Scelga il suo avatar - come le altre persone la vedranno oppure sentiranno. L'Avatar appare solo quando utilizza la modalità Visione Laterale.Settaggio AudioVolume Audio-Trascinate la barra a sinistra o a destra per aumentare o diminuire il volume.Suoni-Selezioni questa modalità per attivare gli effetti sonori.Musica-Selezioni questa modalità per ascoltare la musica di sfondo mentre gioca.Suoni del Croupier-Selezioni questa modalità per sentire il croupier parlare mentre gioca. L'opzione audio deve essere selezionata per sentire il croupier..Suoni del Giocatore-Selezioni questa modalità per sentire gli altri giocatori durante il gioco. L'opzione suono va selezionata per sentire i giocatori.Settaggio GiocoAttiva Modalità Schermo Intero-Selezioni questa opzione per visualizzare il Poker a pieno schermo. Quando questa opzione non è selezionata vedra il Poker in forma ridotta.

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   So you want to play poker do you?

Well step right up and enjoy the rollercoaster ride to fame, fortune and fun! But before sitting down at a table, please ask yourself a couple of simple questions:

Can I afford to play in this tournament? How long will it take and am I able to spare the time? What are my objectives and what are the goals and rules for this tournament?

If you know all the answers then you are ready to begin.

This is the age of the Internet - the information highway - and online poker is played at a very fast pace. Often you'll find that you get double the number of hands per hour than you get dealt in real life tournaments. You'll have to make your decisions a little quicker but there's still plenty of time to act.

But firstly a quick run down on the types of tournaments available.

Sit & Go Single Table Tournament - STT. These are single table tournaments where the winner takes home the prize but usually there is some kind of runner up or even third place consolation prize as well.

Multiple Table Tournament - MTT. These are more like regular tournaments where approximately the top ten percent of places win cash prizes with the prizes increasing as you get to the top of the prize ladder.

There are also Single Table Satellites and Multiple Table Super Satellites where the winners qualify to get into subsequent tournaments like MTTs. The difference here, however, is that in the Single Table Satellite only the winner goes through whilst in Multiple Table or Super Satellites there are a group of joint winners who go through to a future tournament. Titan Pocker

Tournaments are then sub-divided into two basic types: Freezeouts and Re-buy tournaments.

In a Freezeout you cannot buy any more chips and when you go broke you have to leave the tournament. Re-buy tournaments allow you to purchase more chips during the early stages of a tournament but usually there are pre-qualifications, such as you have to have less than your starting stack amount or it has to be during the first three or four levels of a tournament. At the end of the re-buy period you are also allowed to Add-on to your chip stack by purchasing further chips. After this, the tournament proceeds in the same way as a freezeout. In other words, you play until you go broke so you had better look after your chips!

Hopefully this clears up the basic differences between the different types of tournaments. There are also differing types of poker, but the overwhelming majority offered today are No Limit Hold'em and this is the style of poker that shall be described here.

When you sit down at a table at an online Porcker room, ready to play your chosen tournament, you are allocated a specific number of chips. The amount can vary greatly but it's the same for each player, giving each an equal start. Typically you receive around 500-2000 in chips and your aim is to try and win chips from your rival opponents whilst at the same time trying to avoid going broke. If you run out of chips and there are re-buys you can stay in the game, but if the re-buy period has ended you must leave the game and are eliminated from the competition. If you survive long enough, your finishing position determines how much money you have won.

Tournament play is sub-divided into levels which are defined either by a pre-determined number of hands to be played (say 10 or 20), or more commonly by a fixed period of time (from 5 to 30 minutes). Each level is differentiated from the previous one by an increase in the blinds being played.

The Blinds are the two forced bets placed by the two porcker players immediately to the left of the dealer (or button) position. They typically double or increase by 50% from one level to the next and ensure that players are unable to simply sit at the table without playing any hands. The blinds also generate some initial action. In reality they act as forced bets and the smaller one of the two is called the Small Blind which is to the immediate left of the dealer whilst the other one is called the Big Blind. The Big Blind is usually double in size to the Small Blind but sometimes it is only one and half times its size.

When play begins you can bet any amount from the size of the Big Blind up to the total amount in front of you (your chip stack size) and this is why the game is called No Limit Pocker (as compared to Limit or Pot Limit Poker when there are limits on how much you can bet). Any time you put all your chips into the pot you are said to be "All In." Needless to say, if your bet is called and your opponent has more chips than you, the only chips you can win are those up to the size of those chips you yourself have put into the pot. Furthermore, should you lose that hand against an opponent with more chips than yourself, you are eliminated.Titan Pocker

Two cards are dealt to each player face down and these are known as the players' Hole Cards. A round of betting then follows after which three cards are placed face up in the middle of the table (this is referred to as The Flop). Another round of betting follows and then a fourth up card in the middle of the table called The Turn or Fourth Street is exposed. Another round of betting takes place followed by a final fifth up card on Fifth Street or The River, as it is more commonly known. A final round of betting then takes place after which we have The Showdown, where all the cards are exposed and the best hand wins.

The winning hand is the one that contains the best hand made up from any five cards from the seven cards available from the five cards in the middle of the table (the Board Cards) and each player's two hole cards. A player may use one, two or none of his hole cards to make his best possible hand and where there is a tie the pot is split between all the joint winning hands.

Any time a solitary player is left at the table with uncalled or uncontested bets - he/she is declared the winner and does not have to show his/her cards.

These are the basics to the game and now we'll move on to how we can actually best play the game.

Generally speaking, the best hands at the start of a game will be the best cards at the end of the game and as such, this impacts greatly on strategy. Put simply - you wish to play only good starting cards as by doing so you give yourself a better chance of winning. The best hands invariably involve the big cards. This means big pairs like Tens and upwards or AK or AQ (Ace King or Ace Queen). Unfortunately these hands are dealt to you all too infrequently so there are actually other hands that you can play but only if suitable conditions arise.

Due to the nature of the game, one very significant aspect is your position relative to your rivals. It is a definite advantage to be able to act after your opponents as by doing so on each betting round you get to see the strength of their hands through their betting actions before deciding whether or not to proceed with your own hand.

If you have to act first you are at a big disadvantage. To compensate for this you need to have stronger hands when acting first. Likewise when acting later than opponents you can play with relatively weaker hands as you will get to see their actions first, but you should not take this too far as it does not mean that you can play anything just because you have position on an opponent.

To define your position you are said to be in an early position at the table if you are in the first three seats immediately to the left of the blinds. You are in mid position if you are in the next three seats and in late position if you are on the dealer button or immediately to the right of the dealer button. There are also the blind positions which are always first to act on any betting round (except before the flop) and as such always have a disadvantage.

It is true that any two cards can win but this has little to do with the rank of cards that you play but more to do with the betting associated with your cards and this shall be covered later.

For now, suffice to say that when you are going to have others acting behind you on a betting round, you need a much stronger hand than if you have them acting before you.

You have very little control over the cards that are dealt to you and those that appear on the board, but you do have complete control over which cards you choose to play. If you only play good starting hands then you give yourself a better chance of success in the game. No matter how hard you try, you cannot turn bad cards into good ones. The selection of starting hands is probably the single most important area of the game as it is completely within your control, unlike all the other areas.

Do not fall into the trap of trying to turn losing cards into winners. Successfully bluffing someone who has a better hand is possible and a delight to watch when you get away with it but all too often you will be found out and it will cost you chips and so this is a very overrated part of the game.

Generally the rivals you encounter at a table on the Internet are a little looser or wilder than in real life games which means they tend to play weaker starting hands. The best way to play against these types of players is to ensure that you play better starting hands than them. If you can do this, you will automatically win more chips off them than they will win off you, pure and simple! As pointed out above, the best starting hand stand up more often. (This doesn't mean you will always win, just that in the long term you will do better).

Having looked down at your hole cards you must decide what you are going to do. If you're not going to play and you're not in the blinds where you have been forced to bet before receiving any cards - you simply fold. If you wish to play, you need to decide what you are going to bet. Your first option is to simply call the big blind which means that you merely put in amount equal to the size of the big blind. If the blinds are 15 and 30 it means that you put in chips to the value of 30. Your other option if playing is to raise, and if this is your preferred action you further need to consider how much you wish to raise.Titan Pocker

Before doing this, however, you need to think about how your table is playing. Whilst waiting for appropriate cards to play you should be paying attention and watching your opponents. If your rivals are generally raising and re-raising then there seems little point in your limping in by just calling as in all likelihood someone behind you is going to raise and then re-raise which is going to force you to lay down your hand prior to the flop.

If the opponents are more passive and tend to just call opening callers or bettors then it allows you to play a greater range of hands. This means that you are likely to get to the flop relatively cheaply. Here in lies one of the key aspects of playing no limit tournaments. Namely, you should be watching your opponents and noting how they play. Depending on how your opponents play will impact directly on the kinds of cards you can play.

Another key factor that affects starting hand criteria will also be how many chips you have to play with along with the number of chips your opponents have to put into play against you.

As already mentioned, your selection of which starting hands to play is completely within your own control. To summarize thus far - there are three key factors to consider before deciding to play a hand. The importance of this cannot be overstated as it can mean the difference between either playing a hand for a call, or the same hand for a raise, or even throwing that very same hand away.

1. Your position (relative to your opponents on betting rounds).
2. The aggressiveness/passiveness or style in which your opponents play.
3. The chip stack sizes held by you and your opponents.

So how do these things translate into reality?

Already we have seen that you need stronger starting hands if you are in early positions compared to weaker ones if in later position but here are a couple of examples.

If you are first to act after the blinds, many people will not consider playing anything other than a pair of Tens or better or any AK/AQ/AJ or a KQ or QJs (suited). These would generally be considered the minimum requirements for even playing a hand from an early position and there are others that wouldn't play the AJ, QJs or the KQ (unless suited), or even the pair of Tens. This alone should indicate to you that many believe that the disadvantage of position means they really do need a very premium hand. Another problem with playing weaker hands from early position is that because this is big bet poker you want to avoid playing hands that will often make you second best hand when you are involved in a pot.

Because people tend to play a little tighter in tournaments pocker (you cannot reach into your pocket for more chips like you can reach for more cash in a cash game) you will find that when you enter a pot, others coming in behind you tend to have stronger than usual hands. Hence if you play things like AJ from early position you tend to find that a bigger hand like AQ will be calling behind you. If subsequently you hit an Ace on the flop or board you will find yourself in a very dangerous position - thinking you have the best hand but actually having a far worse one. Similarly when you play things like KJ, others behind you often have a better hand even when you get action after a Jack falls on the flop.

Of course it is possible to play weaker hands from earlier positions but you should mainly refrain from doing so except in exceptional circumstances. Firstly, you need to worry about raises behind you because then you will be forced to throw away your hand and not even get to see a flop. Even so, there is nothing wrong with coming in from time to time, especially if your opponents are playing tamely (ie with few if any raises pre-flop). Ideally you still only want to really play these weaker starting hands like suited connectors and small to medium pairs in late position but at least you will get to see the odd flop and if you hit perfectly or a monster draw you may get the chance to win a big pot.

The key point here, however, is that you are still going to have flop nigh on perfectly as hitting a 7 holding an 87s with one or two over cards on board is nothing more than a recipe for disaster and losing lots of chips as invariably someone holds a better hand.

If you do insist on playing weaker starting hands out of position you should also note that the preferred type of hand that you should play is something like an Ax suited. The beauty of this kind of hand is that if you flop an Ace it may be good (although you should still proceed with extreme caution) but you may flop the nut flush or a draw to the best possible flush.

It is important to remember at this point that because there is a lot of money at stake, drawing to nut flushes is infinitely preferable to trying to make the second or third best flush. It is surprisingly frequent for more than one person to be drawing to a flush (particularly in multi way pots) and so to be trying to get the best one is a distinct advantage.

In the same way, playing those small and mid pairs is done in the hope that you flop a set (also known as trips or three of a kind) rather than playing them as though they are the best hand - invariably over cards come on the flop and board which make them difficult to play on subsequent betting rounds.

As previously pointed out, a number of criteria need to be met before you can even consider playing weaker starting hands. One thing you must consider is your opponent's chip stack size. Before you play the suited connectors or small to medium pairs from any position you need to know that it is worth your while to play them.

If, for example, your opponent has 2000 in chips and makes it 150 from early position when the blinds are 25/50, and you only have 600 in chips, it is simply not worth your while playing a pair of 2s. Put simply - you will flop a 2 around 1 in 7 or 1 in 8 times but you will only be able to win four times your initial calling bet so you should throw your pair of 2s away!

Similarly, when playing suited connectors and someone has already entered the pot ahead of you, never really want to call unless you can win around 20 times the amount you have to bet (ie with drawing hands like suited connectors you never really want to put more than 5% of your or your opponents stack into the pot). Remember - you can only win as much as you have in front of you against each opponent and as much as each opponent has in front of them so it is pointless playing for a 100 pre flop bet unless both you and your opponent have 2000 in chips. The reason for this is that you will have to fold your hand on the overwhelming majority of flops and as such it simply isn't worth your while playing these weak hands as they are simply too costly to play in the long term. Titan Pocker

Of course it is fantastic when you do hit a great flop and go on to win a monster pot and possibly break/bust someone but this happens all too infrequently. Often many players will not even call with the smaller pairs even though they are around a 7/1 shot to make trips unless they are again getting 20/1 for their original bet as it is always possible that you will find an opponent with a bigger flopped set.

We are now getting into the realms of pot odds and implied pot odds. An example of this is where your original bet is 100 to the pot size of 300 - meaning you are getting 3/1 for your money now. But in the future, your implied odds may be 2000 to the 100 or 20/1 because this represents the maximum you can win off your opponent in the hand as that is his stack size. TitanPocker

Pot odds are what you are getting in this instant or immediately while implied odds are the odds of the amount of chips you may win if you get to flop a monster and get an opponent's whole stack or at least a large part of it. Unfortunately, nothing is ever this straightforward in poker as the implied odds assume that nobody behind you will re-raise forcing you to fold your hand. In reality, these have to be reduced downwards to compensate for such occurrences.Titan Pocker

As a general rule, unless you are in early position, if you are first to enter a pot in mid to late position you should come in with a raise. The reason for this is that there is a high propensity for players to fold when faced with a raise. There is a good chance that if you have a playable hand you will pick up the uncontested blinds just by raising. However, remember that if you are called it is very likely that the caller will be holding a stronger hand!Titan Pocker

Playing the premium starting hands like the big pairs (Jacks and up) and AK are a little different. Because your starting hand is so strong you tend to have more options in the way you can play them but you should remember that with these kinds of hands you should prefer to play against few opponents rather than many. With the small pairs and suited connectors you want multiple opponents or multi way action and to see a flop cheaply as usually you will have to throw it away on the flop and as such you need to get those high implied odds.

With the bigger pairs and AK you are happy to raise and get lots of money in pre flop. Invariably any opponents will be few and they will have to be playing catch up which is difficult to do with a worse starting hand. However you should not forget that an AK is merely an Ace high and worthless unless it improves so do not get too carried away if you miss the flop and someone bets into you or raises. No pair is no pair whether you hold a 23 or an AK from the flop onwards. You should also remember that a big pair tends to only win a relatively small pot whilst the smaller pairs and suited connectors win bigger ones.Titan Pocker

Another key area of no limit play is deception. Whenever you get to fool opponents into thinking you have a different hand from the one you are actually holding they are prone to making mistakes. If you raised pre flop they often assume that you are holding a pair or big poke cards so by varying your play you can mislead them at a future stage of the tournament (if they are paying attention). Because of this it can be very rewarding to play similar or the same hand in differing ways so when you raise, try and do so in a random fashion. Typically when you enter a pot your raise should be around 2 to 5 times the big pokre blind. However if you always raise twice the big blind with Aces and 4 times with Tens, astute opponents will pick this up and use it against you at a later stage. If your porcker table has aggressive players acting behind you and they are always re-raising you when you limp, then by all means limp next time with aces so you can re-raise them when they raise you. Similarly, if you notice people behind you are calling your raises with very weak cards, then by all means put a larger than usual raise in next time you get Aces as you are going to make them pay a premium for calling your strong hand with garbage. Perhaps what I am trying to say is that you should vary your pokr play according to your opponents' style of play. By doing so you will confuse them as to what you may or may not be holding whilst at the same time maximizing your effectiveness against them.

Watching and categorizing opponents will also help you in your play from the flop onwards. If for example you find yourself involved with an aggressive player who is going to be acting/betting after you then it may be preferable for you to check to him when you flop a good hand in the knowledge that he is almost guaranteed to bet or take a stab at the pot. In this way you get to win more chips off this kind of opponent as by betting you give him a chance to fold without giving you more of his chips.Titan Pocker

Conversely, a meek or passive pokre player in a pot with yourself may be prepared to fold a hand that may or may not be better than yours if you bet into him on the flop. The likelihood is that both of you missed the flop but by betting he may choose to fold and could even fold if he/she has hit the middle or bottom pair. Hence you can see that different types of opponents can be played differently from the flop onwards but to do this you must have paid attention previously so that you could categorize your opponent.

The play before the flop is much easier to conduct than at any other stage of a hand as you merely need to decide whether or not your hand is worth playing and for how much. Put simply - you can decide how much you are prepared to put in the pot and whether or not you are prepared to play for a raise or indeed for all your chips. However, once you reach the flop the fact that there are three exposed cards means that you now have to try and ascertain how good your hand is compared to any others who are also in the pot. This may sound straightforward and simple but in reality it is rather complex as there are almost an infinite number of combinations of cards that may now make your own hand seem quite weak.

So what are you supposed to do? Basically you have to try and determine what kinds of hands your opponents may be holding against you and to do this you need to try and utilize the information you have collected about your opponents along with recalling their betting patterns before the flop.

If you raised in early position and got two callers, then you have to ask yourself what kinds of hands your opponents would have called with. If this scenario is correct, it is most likely that they are holding a pair or two big cards (as these are the better type of starting hands) as they would be foolish to have called you with weak hole cards. Hence if the flop came up 224 off suit you would expect to have little to fear as these kinds of cards are extremely unlikely to be in your opponents hands. With a flop of TJQ with two hearts however, you may have to show some concern as you would have expected your opponents to have called with cards matching this type of flop.

Basically the way to proceed with a hand very much depends on the nature and texture of the flop. Because you will never have the opportunity of knowing for sure what an opponent is holding it is best to simply bet when you have some kind of hand that has a chance of winning and to check when you do not.

Essentially - when you think you are in front you should bet and if you think you are behind you should fold. You should also bet when you think the board has failed to assist your opponents and check or fold when you believe it is likely that it helped your opponents.Titan Pocker

Perhaps what I am saying is that from the flop onwards you need to take care as a pre flop strong hand may now be rendered much weaker depending on what comes on the board. The more cards out on the board the more combinations of winning cards that exist and the stronger the possible range of hands that could be held against you arises.

Learn to try and re-evaluate the strength of your hand as the board has additional cards added to it. The best way of gauging this is to try and calculate which stronger possible hands are possible holdings for your opponents and generally speaking the betting patterns will help you determine this.

For example, if there are two hearts on the flop and you bet and an opponent calls and then a non heart comes on the turn and you bet again and again get called, then if an opponent raises you or bets into you on the river when a third heart comes out there is a definite possibility of him having made a flush. Your opponent may not actually have a flush on the river but generally people that are calling you down without showing much strength are on a draw without a made hand which means they are drawing to a flush or straight. Titan Pocker

The amount you bet and that gets called can also help in deciding whether or not your opponent is drawing to a flush or straight as usually the amount you bet dictates whether they already have a made hand like top pair or are on the draw. (The more you bet in relation to the pot size on the turn, the harder it is for them to call when drawing to a better hand - open-ended straight draws need around 9/2 whilst flush draws need around 4/1).

Betting is the language of poker and until you find resistance from your opponents you can assume that you have the best hand. When and if they raise you, then you can assume that they have a stronger hand. Think of betting as speaking whilst raising is shouting and re-raising is screaming that someone has a better hand.Titan Pocker

Being the original bettor is an important aspect of poker as whenever you bet you give yourself a chance of winning a pot right there and then regardless of whether or not you have the best porker hand. By calling someone you essentially are saying that you have a hand that needs to improve and that you are prepared to play in the hope of catching up to an opponent who has already bet or that you are not sure that you may have the best hand.

Being the aggressor is essential for winning poker and so influential that you will often find that you cause opponents to fold stronger hands than yours. As a consequence, you also need to accept that sometimes you too will be forced to lay down a stronger hand than your opponent pure and simply because your opponent has bet first.

Categorize your opponents - Look at your opponents and study them. Watch how they play and try to categorize their play into aggressive or passive where aggressive players are those that are constantly raising or re-raising and the passive ones are those that continually just limp or call. You also need to classify them into loose or tight players where loose ones are those that play too many hands and weaker hands out of position whilst the tight ones are those that only play premium or strong hands in relation to their position. By trying to fool your opponents by varying your play you will give yourself every chance of fooling your opponents into making mistakes as they will have a hard time placing you on a hand. In essence, try and be gloriously unpredictable in the way that you play.

Check the chip stacks - You need to know exactly how large or small a stack size each of your opponents already involved in the pot is holding as well as those yet to act behind you as you will find that the biggest stacks and the tiniest stacks are more prone to call others involved in the pot. Tiny stacks call because they are getting desperate whilst the largest stacks do this as they can afford it and are looking for opportunities to bust and eliminate other players. You also need to know where the larger stacks are at your table as you need to give those players respect as they can eliminate you in a solitary hand.

What are your opponents playing pocker ? Even when you are not directly involved in a hand you should watch your opponents to try and see what kind of cards they are playing from the relative early mid and late positions as this can provide you with invaluable information later on.Titan Pocker

Because the tables and players are constantly being broken up the turnover of players seems to be quite high in online tournaments but it will help you to make notes on your opponents against their online names. You can either do this manually in a little notebook that you can keep by the side of your computer or ideally via the note facility that exists on most if not all online sites. In this way whenever you come up against the same opponents later on in the tournament or even on another day you will have some information that may guide you to making the correct or best plays.

Re-evaluate your hand as the board develops - Learn to re-evaluate your hand as the board develops and try and back your judgment when placing your opponents on hands. With experience you will get better and better at this and just because you will get it wrong from time to time is no reason for giving up. The important thing is to be prepared to back that judgment as no limit poker is a pker game of fear. If you are scared of going broke then you are effectively reducing your chances of winning as absolutely nobody ever gets it right all the time. If you are prepared to stick your chips into the pot first then you are giving yourself a chance of winning.

No Limit Hold-em  pocker is a game of mistakes and the players that make the least mistakes are the ones that win. It is also a game of incomplete information so the more you have to go on against an opponent the more chance you have of making a more accurate decision.

Hopefully by following these elementary guidelines you will give yourself a chance of better success than your rivals but No-Limit Hold-em tournament poker is a very complex game and as such may take years to master. However following these types of guidelines or at least attempting to watch and categorize your opponents will be a massive step in the right direction for improving your game and giving yourself every chance of success.

Good luck to you all and hope to meet you all at the table sometime.

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